A Guide to Dining in
Double Bay

Double Bay sits between Edgecliff and Rose Bay on the lower north shore of Sydney Harbour, close enough to the CBD to be convenient and far enough from it to have kept a distinct character. It is one of the city's oldest and most established dining neighbourhoods, with a concentration of restaurants, cafes, and bars along Bay Street and Knox Street that makes it easy to spend an entire evening without going more than a few hundred metres.

This is a guide to the neighbourhood from the people who have been feeding it for over 67 years.

The Character of the Neighbourhood

Double Bay has a reputation — sometimes affectionate, sometimes not — as one of Sydney's more upmarket suburbs. The reality is more nuanced. Yes, there are boutiques, wine bars, and restaurants charging prices that reflect the postcode. But there is also a genuine neighbourhood feel that you do not always find in areas of comparable prestige. People live here. They eat here regularly. The restaurants that last are the ones that serve the locals as well as the occasion diners.

The area has changed considerably over the past two decades. The closure of several major retail anchors in the mid-2000s was followed by a slower period, but the precinct has come back strongly. New restaurants and bars have moved in alongside longstanding institutions, and the mix is now genuinely interesting.

What to Eat and Where to Start

Double Bay covers a wider range of cuisine than people sometimes expect. Italian is well represented, as is modern Australian and Japanese. But the suburb's strongest suit is its European classics — the kind of cooking that rewards a leisurely pace and a good bottle of wine.

For Hungarian and European food, 21 Espresso on Knox Street remains the undisputed reference point. It is the oldest continuously operating restaurant in the area and the only place in Double Bay serving genuine Hungarian classics. The schnitzel, the goulash, the matzo soup, the strudel — these are dishes that have been on the menu since 1958, refined over decades, and still made with more care than most. If you have not been, start here.

The alfresco terrace at 21 is also one of the neighbourhood's best kept secrets for a long Sunday breakfast or a relaxed midweek lunch. It is dog friendly, covered against the weather, and faces the street in a way that makes people watching a natural part of the experience.

Getting There and Getting Around

Double Bay is easily reached from the CBD. The most pleasant approach is the Harbour ferry from Circular Quay, which takes about 20 minutes and arrives at the Double Bay wharf a short walk from Knox Street. By car, it is approximately 10 minutes from the city via New South Head Road. Parking is available on Knox Street and in several council car parks within a short walk.

The train does not serve Double Bay directly, but Edgecliff station on the Eastern Suburbs line is a ten minute walk and is served by frequent trains from the city and Bondi Junction.

A Few Things Worth Knowing

Weekends are busy across the whole precinct. If you are planning a Friday or Saturday dinner at any of the better known restaurants, book ahead. This applies particularly to larger groups.

The best time to visit for a relaxed experience is a weekday lunch or an early Sunday morning. Knox Street on a Sunday before midday has a pace and a quiet that is entirely different from the weekend evening rush.

Double Bay rewards exploration on foot. The streets between Knox Street and Bay Street are compact and walkable, and some of the best spots are not immediately obvious from the main drag. If you arrive early for dinner, allow time to walk the neighbourhood before you sit down.

And if you have not been to 21 Espresso before — the corner of Knox Street, the covered terrace, the menu that has been refined for over 67 years — make it your first stop. There is a reason it is still there.